Drive Sicily's greatest hits in nine days: Palermo's street food, Cefalù's Norman cathedral, Taormina's clifftop theatre, the baroque island of Siracusa, and the ancient temples of Agrigento.
Sicily rewards travellers who arrive by car. The island is larger than most people expect, the motorways are fast and uncrowded outside the main cities, and the distance between great sites is never more than three hours. This Sicily road trip itinerary covers the island's essential highlights in nine days, looping from Palermo along the north coast to Taormina, then south through Siracusa to the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento before returning west.
It is not a route that tries to do everything. Western Sicily's salt pans, Segesta's lonely temple, and the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto all deserve their own visits. What this loop does is give you a complete picture of the island: Byzantine mosaics, an active volcano, ancient Greek ruins, and a coastline that was painting backdrops for travellers long before the modern era.
| Day | Location | Drive |
|---|---|---|
| 1–2 | Palermo | base |
| 3 | Cefalù | 1 hr |
| 4–5 | Taormina | 2.5 hrs |
| 6–7 | Siracusa | 1.5 hrs |
| 8 | Agrigento | 2 hrs |
| 9 | Palermo (return) | 2 hrs |
Collect your hire car at Palermo's Falcone-Borsellino Airport on day 1 and return it there on day 9. If you can, choose a manual gearbox: automatics in Sicily cost up to double the price and availability is limited.
Palermo is not for arrival and sleep. Give it two full days. The city's Arab-Norman heritage is extraordinary: the gilded mosaics of the Palatine Chapel inside the Norman Palace are among the finest in Europe, and the Martorana church in the Piazza Bellini adds another layer of 12th-century Byzantine splendour.
But the city also lives in its markets. Ballarò, in the Albergheria quarter, is the oldest and most theatrical: traders sell produce, street food, and household goods from stalls that have barely changed in centuries. Eat as you walk: arancine (stuffed rice balls), panelle (chickpea fritters), and a square of sfincione (thick Palermitan pizza with tomato and onion).
Keep the car parked. Every historic centre in Sicily has ZTL restricted zones that issue automatic fines. Collect the car when you are ready to drive to Cefalù.
The drive east along the A20 takes about an hour. Cefalù is one of those coastal towns that earns its reputation. A wide sandy beach runs along the eastern side; above it, the Norman cathedral fills the main piazza with the same Arab-Norman grandeur you saw in Palermo. Inside, the golden mosaic of Christ Pantocrator in the apse is the most serene image in Sicily.
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Above the town, La Rocca is a short but steep climb to a ruined Arab fortress with views along the coast in both directions. Go in the morning before the heat builds.
The road from Cefalù to Taormina takes about two and a half hours but passes through some of Sicily's finest coastal scenery. Taormina itself sits on a clifftop 200 metres above the Ionian Sea. The approach from the north gives you the first glimpse of the Greek Theatre with Mount Etna smoking in the background.
The theatre is the centrepiece. Built in the third century BC and enlarged by the Romans, it remains one of the most beautifully positioned ancient theatres in the world. The backdrop (sea to the right, Etna to the left) is best in the early morning before the tour groups arrive.
Use your second day in Taormina for Etna. Day tours range from a walk across the summit crater rims to winery visits on the volcanic slopes, where Nerello Mascalese vines grow in the lava soil. The cable car down to Isola Bella beach offers a quieter alternative.
The drive south to Siracusa takes about an hour and a half on the A18. The city was once the most powerful in the ancient Greek world, larger than Athens at its peak.
The Neapolis Archaeological Park holds the Greek Theatre, carved from rock in the fifth century BC and still hosting performances today, alongside the Latomia del Paradiso: deep limestone quarries where Athenian prisoners of war were held. The largest quarry is called the Ear of Dionysius for its extraordinary acoustics.
Ortigia, the island connected to the mainland by two short bridges, is where you eat and sleep. Its baroque cathedral was built inside a Greek temple; the ancient Doric columns are still visible in the walls. The waterfront bars are where the city's evenings begin. Leave the car on the mainland.
The two-hour drive west to Agrigento crosses the Sicilian interior. The Valley of the Temples is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and contains some of the best-preserved Greek temples in the world: seven temples strung along a ridge, with views stretching to the sea.
The Temple of Concordia is the finest, its walls almost entirely intact after 2,500 years. Arrive early: the site is exposed and shadeless, and by midday in summer the heat is punishing. If time allows, drive 20 kilometres southwest to Scala dei Turchi — a white-chalk cliff formation that curves into a turquoise sea, one of Sicily's most striking natural features.
The two-hour motorway drive back to Palermo is straightforward. Return the hire car at the airport or drop it at a city branch for a late flight. If you have time before departure, the Vucciria market and the Kalsa neighbourhood are worth a final wander.
ZTL zones: Every historic centre has restricted traffic areas that trigger automatic fines. Never drive into pedestrianised old towns. Ask each hotel whether your car needs registering if you are parking nearby.
Fuel: Fill up whenever you see a station on rural stretches. Many petrol stations close on Sundays and during the midday break (roughly 12:30 to 4:30 pm).
Tolls: The A20 and A18 are tolled motorways. Expect to pay €20 to €40 for the full loop.
Parking: Budget €8 to €15 per night for a guarded car park in each city. Blue-line street spaces are paid during the day.
May and September are the sweet spot. Temperatures are warm but not brutal, the sea is swimmable, crowds are manageable, and prices are lower than peak summer. June can work but Taormina fills quickly. Avoid August if possible: accommodation costs double and the Valley of the Temples in midday heat is a serious undertaking.
How long do you need to drive Sicily? Nine days is a realistic minimum for the key sites on this loop. Add two or three days if you want to include western Sicily (Trapani, Segesta, Selinunte) or the full Val di Noto Baroque towns.
Do I need an international driving permit? US and Canadian licence holders technically require an International Driving Permit (IDP), available from AAA or CAA for around $20. EU licence holders do not.
Is it safe to drive in Sicily? Driving outside city centres is straightforward. Palermo and Catania city centres are best avoided by nervous drivers. Assertive lane changes are common; defensive driving works well.
Can I do this route without a car? Buses and trains connect the main towns, but the Siracusa to Agrigento leg is awkward without a car and significant extra time.
Ready to plan it in detail? Use the full Sicily Grand Tour route above to see every stop, driving leg, and overnight on the map.
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The full route — stops, maps, and driving times — is on Routebook by Kington.
A 9-day counterclockwise loop of Sicily from Palermo — Norman cathedrals, a clifftop Greek theatre, ancient temples, and the baroque island of Ortigia.
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