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A seven-day self-drive loop around Madeira's dramatic coastline and mountains, from Funchal to thatched Santana, the lava pools of Porto Moniz and the golden beach at Calheta.
RoutebookMadeira is a volcanic island rising steeply from the Atlantic 1,000 km southwest of Lisbon, and driving it rewards those who take the time to cover it properly. This seven-day loop from Funchal takes in four distinct faces of the island: the terraced baroque capital, the thatched villages and cloud forests of the north, the raw volcanic northwest tip with its natural lava pools, and the sheltered golden sand at Calheta in the southwest. No single drive takes longer than an hour. Standard hire cars are fine for all roads on this loop, and Madeira has no toll roads: all expressways and tunnels are free. The north coast between Santana and Porto Moniz is the most demanding section: a narrow coastal road with tight bends above the sea, but one that requires care rather than specialist driving. April to June and September to October are the best months: cloud forest is at its greenest, mountain views are clear, and the trails are less crowded than peak summer.
Best time: April to October: spring best for levada walks
4 overnight bases · 1 stop on the way
On the way
Activity
PR1 Trail to Pico Ruivo
Madeira's finest hike ascends to the island's highest peak (1,861 m) through a landscape of vertiginous ridges and cloud forest. The route from Achada do Teixeira near Santana takes around two hours return. Start early to catch the summit before cloud forms.
Activity
Levada do Caldeirão Verde
A 13 km levada walk from Queimadas Forest Park through tunnels and dense laurisilva to a dramatic 100-metre waterfall in a narrow basalt gorge. One of the most rewarding levada trails on the island. Bring a headlamp for the tunnels.
Beach
Porto Moniz lava pools
Natural swimming pools formed by volcanic rock extending into the Atlantic at Madeira's northwest tip. The dark lava and clear blue water is the island's most photographed seascape. Best visited in the morning before the tour coaches arrive from Funchal.
Activity
Monte toboggan, Funchal
A 130-year-old tradition: two carros do cesto drivers in white steer a wicker sled 2 km downhill from Monte village to Funchal. The 10-minute ride is genuinely exhilarating and a unique piece of Madeiran culture.
Viewpoint
Paul da Serra plateau
Madeira's central plateau sits at 1,300 metres and presents a stark contrast to the rest of the island: open moorland, wind turbines, grazing cattle and long views down to both coasts on clear days. A natural stop on the Porto Moniz to Calheta drive.
Food & drink
Mercado dos Lavradores, Funchal
A 1940s Art Deco market in Funchal's old town where flower sellers, fishmongers and tropical fruit vendors fill a covered hall. The espada (scabbardfish) stall is one of the most unusual fish counters in Europe. Friday market is the largest.
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