Seven days on Portugal's volcanic Atlantic island: Funchal's baroque gardens, Santana's thatched villages, Porto Moniz lava pools and Calheta's golden beach, with levada walks and mountain scenery throughout.
Madeira is a volcanic island rising steeply from the Atlantic Ocean 1,000 km southwest of Lisbon, and driving it is one of the most rewarding island road trips in Europe. The distances are short, but the terrain is so dramatic that what looks like a brief drive on the map becomes a sequence of cliff edges, mountain passes, tunnels and coastal corniche roads. This seven-day Madeira road trip itinerary loops clockwise from Funchal, taking in the capital, the thatched north, the volcanic northwest tip and the sheltered southwest coast.
You do not need a 4WD. Standard hire cars handle all the roads covered here without trouble. The island has no toll roads: all expressways and tunnels are free, which simplifies logistics considerably. No single driving day involves more than an hour at the wheel, leaving the rest of the time for walks, swimming and exploring.
No tolls: Madeira's expressways and tunnels are all free. No electronic toll device is needed.
Best time to go: April to October, with April to June and September to October offering the best conditions for levada walks. The north coast cloud forest is at its greenest in spring, views are clearer in early autumn, and trails are less crowded than peak summer. July and August are warm and popular; book accommodation in advance.
Levada walks: Madeira has hundreds of kilometres of levada (irrigation channel) footpaths. The most popular routes are PR (Percurso Recomendado) marked trails. Bring a headlamp for the tunnels and a waterproof jacket: the north side of the island is wetter than the south.
Car hire: Any small hire car is fine for this loop. An automatic is useful for the steep mountain roads around Santana.
Funchal sits in a natural amphitheatre, rising steeply from the harbour in terraces of white buildings and tropical gardens. Allow two days to explore before heading north.
Start at the Mercado dos Lavradores, Funchal's 1940s Art Deco market: flower sellers line the entrance, fishmongers display espada (scabbardfish) on beds of ice, and fruit vendors offer samples of passionfruit and papaya. The Friday market is the largest. From there, walk uphill through the old town and along the Botanical Garden.
On day two, take the cable car from the harbour zone up to Monte (15 minutes, sweeping bay views). At the top: the Nossa Senhora do Monte church, the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, and the famous wicker toboggan ride back to Funchal, a 130-year tradition that remains genuinely exhilarating. Two drivers in white trousers steer the sled 2 km downhill; the whole thing takes 10 minutes.
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The drive from Funchal to Santana crosses to the north coast via the central expressway (around 45 minutes). The landscape changes immediately: the north is greener and cloudier, with steep terraces of banana plants and vegetation descending to the sea.
Santana is famous throughout Madeira for its palheiro houses: triangular structures with straw-thatched roofs that extend almost to the ground, painted white with coloured trim. Several are open to visitors; others are still inhabited. The village is small but the houses are genuinely unlike anything else in Portugal.
Santana is the best base for Madeira's finest hike. Drive 40 minutes up to Achada do Teixeira and walk the PR1 trail to Pico Ruivo (1,861 m), the island's highest peak. The round trip takes around two hours through exposed ridges and cloud forest. Start early: Pico Ruivo is usually clear until around 10 or 11 am, when the clouds roll in from the north.
On the second day, Queimadas Forest Park (15 minutes from Santana) is the starting point for the PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde trail: 13 km through four tunnels and dense laurisilva forest to a dramatic 100-metre waterfall in a narrow gorge. Allow five to six hours return and bring a headlamp for the tunnels.
The drive west from Santana along the north coast road is one of the island's most dramatic stretches: a narrow road clinging to the cliff face between the sea and steep green hillsides. Allow 50 to 60 minutes to reach Porto Moniz; the road demands attention but the views are extraordinary.
Porto Moniz is a small fishing village at Madeira's northwest tip, built around its famous natural swimming pools: lava flows that hardened in the ocean to create a series of rocky basins filled with clear Atlantic water. Entry is €1.50 and includes changing facilities. The pools are best in the morning before the tour coaches arrive from Funchal, and can be closed when the Atlantic swell is high.
Two nights here covers the pools and leaves time for the second day. Drive 30 minutes inland on the ER209 up to the Paul da Serra plateau (1,300 m) for the contrasting moorland landscape: wind turbines, open grassland and views down to both coasts on a clear day. It is Madeira's most unusual landscape and a natural stop on the way south to Calheta.
Calheta is the main town on Madeira's southwest coast and home to the island's only golden-sand beach. The sand was imported from Morocco and the Canary Islands, but the bay is genuinely sheltered and the water calmer than the north coast. Arrive in the morning for the best chance of space.
The Engenho da Calheta, a working sugar cane mill, offers guided tours of the traditional pressing and distillation process. The resulting aguardente and rum are sold on site. The Casa das Mudas, a contemporary art museum built into the volcanic hillside, is worth an hour if the exhibition interests you.
The drive back to Funchal from Calheta takes under 40 minutes on the VR1 expressway along the south coast. Use the final morning for a last walk along the Funchal waterfront or through the old town before heading to the airport, 10 minutes east of the city.
Driving: The main roads are excellent. The north coast stretch between Santana and Porto Moniz is narrow with passing places; take it slowly. Mountain roads around Paul da Serra can be cold and misty.
Pico Ruivo: The PR1 trail may require advance booking during peak season. Check visitmadeira.com before the trip.
Weather: The north coast gets considerably more cloud and rain than the south. Pack a waterproof layer regardless of the forecast in Funchal.
Parking in Funchal: The city has several paid car parks. Street parking in the old town is limited. Most hotels offer parking or can direct you to the nearest public car park.
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The full route — stops, maps, and driving times — is on Routebook by Kington.
A seven-day self-drive loop around Madeira's dramatic coastline and mountains, from Funchal to thatched Santana, the lava pools of Porto Moniz and the golden beach at Calheta.
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